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The Business of Fashion "I wanted to start a movement of new generation, young fashion designers in Japan," Arashi Yanagawa tells me over coffee in louis vuitton kartenetui amazon Tokyo's hip Nakameguro neighbourhood.
He is speaking of the genesis of John Lawrence Sullivan, the menswear brand he started almost five years ago. But Arashi hasn't always been a fashion designer. At first, he followed in his father's footsteps and spent 13 years in professional boxing. Then, with no fashion training whatsoever, he used his fight money and worked with local pattern cutters to perfect his first collection of two blazers, using vintage garments as a starting point. As a nod to his former life, he named his brand after the 1880's American bare knuckle boxer and today, JLS is Japan's hottest menswear label, known for its slick tailoring and modern accessories. at prices lower than Lanvin and Thom Browne, but still packing a designWhile most Chinese are still focused on buying into the prestige and status of international luxury brands, there are emerging local alternatives for those who want something more individual. Bubbling design and fashion scenes in and around Shanghai's Taikang Lu and JinXian Lu offer a little bit of niche, homespun design to offset the ubiquity, even in China, of Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton. In the new Shanghai, emerging fashion designers seek inspiration from louis vuitton small ring agenda home or abroad, create garments that range from the culturally literal to the conceptually commercial, and target mass and class and everything in between. All the same, they share the same louis vuitton neverfull yellow interior business challenges as their counterparts in other established and emerging design centres, from London and New York to Mumbai and Buenos Aires. My first glance at Beijing's brand new airport (BCIA) was also the first sign of China's stylish transformation since my previous visit here 7 years ago. I couldn't take my eyes off the ceiling, which seemed to go on forever, as I zoomed through immigration and retrieved my bag. I was in and out in less than 30 minutes. When I commented on the airport's breathtaking design and efficiency to locals, they proudly informed me that BCIA was completed in only 4 years and has run without a hitch from day one. This is particularly notable when compared to the disastrous opening of London Heathrow's Terminal 5, which opened around the same time as BCIA, but took 6 years to build and is still not running as expected. And, the success of BCIA also provides the perfect analogue for China's nascent fashion industry. Founded in 1858 by Frdric Boucheron, The House of Boucheron is one of the most storied jewelers in Paris' sparkling Place Vendome. In the past, Boucheron has been a jeweler to international royalty, from the Indian Maharaja Bhupindar Singh of Patiala to Czar Alexander III and Queen Elizabeth II. More recently, Hollywood royalty like Eva Longoria, Nicole Kidman, and Penelope Cruz have also found themselves bejeweled in Boucheron. With a luxury profile and brand positioning like this, it would be easy to dismiss the Internet as a sales channel and communication platform. But today, Boucheron is moving into the online space with as much prescience as Mr. Boucheron did when he was first jeweler to set up shop in the Place Vendome. I spoke to Boucheron to find out more. There was wall to wall coverage of Yves Saint Laurent's funeral in Paris on Thursday, but as usual, it was Suzy Menkes, in her own erudite and quirky way, who best managed to capture the mood of the moment in her article and video about Saint Laurent's final farewell. That John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, Ricardo Tisci, Valentino Garavani, Jean Paul Gaultier, Sonia Rykiel, Stefano Pilati, Mark Jacobs, Alber Elbaz, Hubert de Givenchy and Vivienne Westwood were all there to pay homage speaks to Saint Laurent's towering status amongst his peers and YSL successors. The one notable absentee was Karl Lagerfeld. Marc Jacobs, speaking of Saint Laurent's influence on louis vuitton neverfull gm 100 oryginalna his own designs, said simply "He's the person who taught me everything I know." In creative fields like fashion, it is this kind of recognition, respect and influence that stands the test of time. Not dollars and cents. Today, Netscape's share of web browser use is less than 1% and Altavista is a relic. Donna Karan still puts out collections in New York, but she scarcely merits a full length review in Cathy Horyn's reviews. Nobody even remembers Mark Eisen. In the worlds of Fashion and the Internet, things can change very quickly indeed. Combine the two together, and things travel at lightspeed. I spoke to Editor Dolly Jones about the new technology and content underlying the relaunched site. Word on the street is that Rosso is in talks to acquire Superfine Jeans, the hot London based premium denim brand, founded in 2003 by Lucy Pinter and Flora Evans. Superfine has become well known for its directional silhouettes and popularity amongst the global style A list, including Kate Moss, Gisele Bundchen and Mary Kate Olsen. While Mr. Rosso has been acquisitive in the past, he has tended to focus more on the fashion end of things, acquring stakes in Maison Martin Margiela, DSquared2, and most recently, Sophia Kokosalaki, through Diesel's Staff International subsidiary. Today, however, things aren't as straightforward. Other Walpole seminar participants like Mohan Murjani (of the Murjani Group partners to Jimmy Choo, Gucci and Bottega Veneta in India) also revealed that new luxury entrants in India are up against strong domestic players, labyrinthine bureaucracy, and inconsistent infrastructure. Break even will take longer than some might have hoped. On the Internet side, despite the naturally chatty and curious Indian nature, things have also been very slow to develop. I explored this topic in an article in Luxeletter, an online publication from the Murjani Group, covering the luxury industry in India. The entire article is republished below. Fans of YSL, or simply those who want to learn more, may want to check out the newly opened (and, I guess, impeccably timed) YSL retrospective at the Muse des Beaux Arts de Montral which runs until September 28, 2008 and which is being planned in conjunction with La Fondation Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent. Pierre Berg himself was on hand for the opening of the highly acclaimed exhibit last week, and according to a friend on the organising team, he recounted some incredible stories about his life and times with Monsieur Saint Laurent.
Of course, tributes to YSL are pouring in from up on high, from every corner of the fashion world. But, if you would like to pay your own personal tribute, please feel free to do so here and I will ensure that any tributes and comments are sent over to Montral to be shared somehow as part of the retrospective. It would be a fitting way to honour this legendary designer who was, above all, a man of the people, known for empowering women.
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